Pictorial guide on modifying your PC power supply SATA
power cable - Page 2
By Greig Mackenzie
Remove
existing SATA Power Connectors - Different Strokes for Different Folks
Of the
various SATA power connectors I have here I can identify three different
types. Most typical, and those used on the TT ToughPower and Enermax
Liberty are the right-angle 'self-crimping' type, i.e., the contacts of
the connector 'cut' through the insulation of the wires. The last
connector is the moulded type and doesn't appear to be 'serviceable' but
could easily be cut off and replaced if necessary. On some adapters and
splitters that I have, the connectors are of the pin variety similar to
the connectors on a fan header plug, for instance.
Another
variety uses pins/sockets like that on the 'speaker' connector to your
motherboard, where you have to 'lift' the little plastic tabs while
extracting the pins as opposed to pressing the metal tabs/pins down like
the fan header connector.
I've
thought about making up my own cables from scratch too, particularly
given I have modular PSUs I can basically 'crimp' the Molex pins of the
Molex and PSU connectors to one of the wires/cable and use right-angle
'self-crimping' SATA power connectors that 'splice' themselves on-see
here:
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod3336.htm. You can see the fan
header style referred to above here:
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod3334.htm.
If you
have the 'self-crimping' variety, removing them is very easy.
Examples
Pictures of examples mentioned (from top-left to bottom-right: jewellers
screwdrivers used, cap of self-crimping (Type 2a), moulded/sealed (Type
1a), inline/right-angled/self-crimping (Type 2a), motherboard header
connector type-lift tabs (Type 2a), motherboard fan header connector
type-depress pins (Type 2b):
With
the moulded/sealed version on the right (below), there is little hope of
removing it for re-use-Type 1a. Cut-off, discard and replace with
self-crimping type.
The
version on the left (below) can be removed and refitted with care-Type
1b.
I don't
think there is anyway to salvage the sealed connector (above) even if
you could prise/cut it apart. You could try to slice it carefully around
the edges with a razor blade, hobby knife, etc. but I don't think it
will go back together very well... maybe with some glue.
I have
the same cables and want to add two right angled SATA power connectors
so that I can have 4 drives powered off one cable, about an inch apart
and with no 'extra' cable between. My intention was to cut the last
connector off totally just below the second last connector and then
sleeve the ends of each wire with heatshrink. You could probably also
cut those wires on the last connector so that they do not protrude from
the connector. This would eliminate the visible heatshrinked ends.
In the
end, I chose to retain the existing Type 1a connector at the end and
just add the right-angled, self-crimping connectors accordingly.
Type 1b
I was
feeling brave one morning and took apart the Type 1b version (left in
pic above). There was one casualty that didn't adversely affect the
connector. One of the four little tabs that hold the connector housing
together broke. It went back to together okay though.
The
blade driver used initially, to open up the gap, was a little smaller:
One of the four tabs that broke (It still went back together okay though):
The two
housing pieces and the central connector core. This bit is still a
problem. Too large for the 'ideal' diameter braid:
The
'core' connector piece - problem!
This
would NOT come apart. This could be a problem:
Why
give up?
